I know that patience is virtuous and weÕre supposed to live in the present moment as much as we can. But every year at about this time, I find it difficult not to want to lurch forward into the summer fruit season in all ways Š and with baking, in particular. I want to grab the earliest peach, even if itÕs not the best peach, simply to get peach-primed, at least in spirit. My preferred peach-priming exercise is this pudding-cake, which can be made with not-quite-ready peaches (or even with frozen, unsweetened ones Š they work surprisingly well!). This nice little summer-anticipation recipe makes a great breakfast treat, as well as a special treat for dessert or afternoon tea. Serve it warm, about 30 minutes after it comes out of the oven, for maximum ambiance.

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray a 9 X 13-inch pan with nonstick spray.
2. Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and spices into a medium-sized bowl.
3. In a separate bowl, beat together the eggs, and brown sugar with an electric mixer at high speed, for about 2 minutes. Stir in the milk, extract, and melted butter.
4. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, and pour in the wet mixture. Add the peaches, and stir until well combined. (DonÕt overmix.)
5. Spread into the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted all the way into the center comes out clean.
6. Serve hot or warm, with a pillow of whipped cream, cr¸me fraiche, or vanilla yogurt alongside.