One of the less-discussed, but -to me- most interesting aspects of the European explorers' voyages (most famously in the late 15th century) is their discovery of certain enormously important food items in the New World. The Conquistadores had set out in search of exotic spices, among other things, and, having bumped into an unexpected continent in the process, inadvertently became acquainted with such native-to-the-Americas items as tomatoes, squash, corn, certain beans, potatoes, chocolate and chilies (including peppers of all kinds). Over time, all of these commodities were brought back to Europe and incorporated into the various cuisines (not without some trial and error, as in the case of tomatoes, which at first were thought to be merely decorative). I am surprised, when I speak of this, at how many people are unaware that these foods originated in the Americas. Many thanks, then, to the sophisticated agriculture of the indigenous folks, who had lived here for generations before the Europeans arrived, and developed their cooking and their culture around these crops and others.

I love the fact that the few days of unseasonably warm weather that often visit us just before the cooler winds begin stirring are named in honor of the Native Americans whose agriculture contributed so much to the best of what we eat. Indian Summer: so evocative and fleeting! What better way to celebrate it than with a light casserole featuring several of the foods for which we have the Native Americans to thank. Let's call this a pre-Thanksgiving Appreciation, beautiful in its utter simplicity.

This is a perfect dinner for one of those last warm evenings of the year, whether it's balmy enough to quality officially as Indian Summer, or just plan lovely, with no particular label. When there is still about an hour of sunlight remaining, and it forms a glow out the kitchen window, here is the meal to serve. (And if you don't have a window by your table, you can imagine that you do.)

In the main dish, ordinary vegetables from the tail end of the season are boldy seasoned, then combined with olives, chilies, and cheese, and baked in custard. While the casserole bakes, prepare a very simple salad of peppery watercress and sweet currants with earthy walnuts. This will contrast beautifully with the casserole, and a basket of warmed corn tortillas will round out the meal perfectly.

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 6x9-inch pan (or its equivalent) with nonstick spray.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, swirl to coat the pan, and add the corn, peppers, chilies, tomatoes, cumin, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Increase the heat to medium-high, and sauté quickly for about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, sauté for a minute longer, then remove from heat.
3. Stir in the scallions and herbs, and add the remaining salt - and black pepper and cayenne to taste. Sprinkle in the cheese, and stir until it melts, then spread the mixture into the prepared pan.
4. Beat together the eggs and milk, and pour this mixture over the top. Dust lightly with paprika, and bake in the center of the oven for 30 to 35 minutes, or until set.
5. Serve hot or warm. It's also good at room temperature

This is a subtle and elegant salad, lightly dressed directly in the bowl, and with small touches of flavor and texture that really hit home. If you clean and dry the greens ahead of time, the salad will take just minutes to prepare. This tastes best when made with a very flavorful walnut oil, but it also tastes fine with extra virgin olive oil. Prepare this salad just before serving. It will not hold if it sits around for any length of time.

1. Clean the greens and dry them thoroughly, then tear the lettuce into a salad bowl. Tear or mince the watercress, and add it to the lettuce.
2. Finely mince the scallions with a very sharp knife, and toss these in, too.
3. Drizzle with oil, and toss. Sprinkle very lightly with salt, and toss again. Keep tossing as you add in the remaining ingredients, and serve right away.