Aphrodite holds one in her hand; Eve takes a fateful bite.

The serpent guards it, and Hercules obtains golden ones from the Gardens of Hesperides (and uses them for I don't know what). I'm talking, of course, about the ubiquitous and illustrious apple, one the most versatile and mythologized of all foods. Johnny Appleseed, may he rest in rich compost, would be pleased to know that over 7 thousand varieties of his favorite fruit, all descendants of the original, very tart, barely edible wild crab apple are now widely cultivated. The average American consumption of apples (including processed apple products) is about 120 per person per year, or roughly 40 pounds! I would venture to guess the apple is the most-consumed fruit in this country.

Endlessly versatile, apples are great for eating, as we all well know, and in the autumn, when fresh apples are at their peak, we might want a few other options besides just picking one up and taking a large, juicy bite. There is very little new to say about apples, other than to come up with countless new recipes, which is one of my most enjoyable pastimes. This cake is one of my very favorite ways to take the humble apple uptown. Not only is it delicious, this recipe is also a very good example of how beautifully apples blend with a complex spectrum of other flavors–in this case, sweet spices, orange, walnuts, and chocolate. It's just so very... Autumnal. Served with strong tea and some sharp cheddar cheese, this dark, moist, lovely cake makes a perfect afternoon snack for a Sunday in September.

• Make this with commercial applesauce, or make your own homemade applesauce ahead of time. To do so, simple peel and core 3 pounds of apples (any kind but red delicious), and cook them with 1/2 cup water and a dash of salt, in a partially covered saucepan over medium heat (checking the water lever to see if an additional splash might be needed) for about 20 minutes or until soft. Mash with a potato masher, and cool.
• Soften butter ahead of time (unwrap directly into the mixing bowl, and leave at room temperature for several hours)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a standard-size tube or bundt pan with nonstick spray.
2. Place the walnuts in a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Add the granulated sugar, and pulse on and off until the walnuts are ground into a coarse meal. Set aside.
3. Add the brown sugar to the butter, and beat with an electric mixer at high speed until fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating at high speed after each. Scrape the sides of the bowl, and beat until very smooth. Stir in the vanilla and orange zest.
4. Sift the dry ingredients together into a second bowl. Stir in the ground walnuts.
5. In a third bowl, whisk together the applesauce and yogurt (or buttermilk or sour cream).
6. Add the dry mixture and the applesauce mixture alternately to the butter mixture (dry-wet-dry-wet-dry), stirring just enough to blend after each addition.
7. Transfer the batter to the prepared pan, and bake in the center of the oven 45 to 55 minutes, or until a sharp knife inserted all the way into the center comes out clean. Cool completely on a rack before slicing and serving.