Cauliflower enjoys the broadest acceptable texture range of just about any vegetable. When spanking fresh, it’s always delightful raw: crunchy white puff balls as a very satisfying crudité. And at the extreme other end, cauliflower is also brilliant when boiled and mashed. In this recipe, the high-temperature roasting process allows cauliflower to become simultaneously fork tender and chewy, with delicately crisp surface points surprising you at random. The cheese crust helps greatly.