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FRESH PEAS IN MANY FORMS

Peas are an ancient food, and no one is certain of their origin. They were popular among the Romans, and written about in Norse mythology. Later, peas were refined and cultivated by the Italians, who, in turn, introduced them to France. Peas were brought to the New World by Columbus, who planted the first crop in America in 1493 on Isabella Island. The Indians fell in love with this vegetable, and readily incorporated it into their cuisine.

Peas are so subtle, they can easily be overpowered by other flavors. Keep this in mind when cooking them, and try to keep the dish, whatever it is, simple. Some delightful ways to season peas:

  1. Butter and a little salt
  2. Cooked pearl onions
  3. A small amount of a fresh herb or two (finely chopped mint, chervil, sage, chives, tarragon, parsley, basil)
  4. Minced sautéed mushrooms
  5. A little bit of fresh spring garlic, lightly sautéed in butter
When buying any kind of fresh peas, look for small peas with crispy, firm shells. The peas inside, if not an edible pod variety, should be tender and taste very sweet. (Open one up and take a taste.) Don't buy peas with limp, yellowing, or spotted pods, or those that are dry around the edges.

The freshest of fresh peas, similar to corn, should ideally be cooked and eaten within hours (or preferable minutes, but let's be realistic) of being picked, and are best picked in a slightly immature state. Since most of us do not grow our own and can't always get to a farmers' market, we're probably better off using frozen baby peas than unfresh fresh ones, if you know what I mean. Frozen peas are not as delicate and exquisite as fresh-fresh, but they cook into a delicious soup and are good, simply defrosted, in or on salads. (Remember, frozen peas are already cooked.)

NOTE: You can easily defrost frozen peas by placing them in a strainer or colander and running room temperature tap water over them.


EDIBLE-POD PEAS: (Snow peas and sugar snaps) These pods contain peas so tiny that most of what we eat is the pod itself. Very little preparation is necessary–just remove the strings.

Snow peas and sugar snaps are delicacies enjoyed for their outstandingly crunchy texture and their sweet taste.

Buy deep green pods with no yellowing or spotting. Snow peas and sugar snaps will store for up to a day in a plastic bag in the refrigerator, but not for much longer, or they will lose their crunch.

PEA SPROUTS: (aka shoots) Early in the season, when pea vines have just a few leaves and tendrils, the shoots themselves are delightful to eat, raw or lightly sautéed. The pleasures of cooking with pea shoots have long been known to Chinese cooks, but are a relatively new idea in the West. If you don't grow your own peas, look for fresh pea shoots at a farmers' market or a good greengrocer. Their refrigerator-shelf life is very short, so eat them as soon as possible. Recipe: Pea Shoots with Garlic.