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Superfoods
WINTER SQUASH
by Mollie Katzen


Botanically similar to cucumbers and to muskmelons (including cantaloupe), which also grow on vines and emerge from blossoms, all squash is technically a fruit, and all varieties of squash (and their gourd cousins) are native to the Americas. In fact, it is believed that squash, which predated both corn and beans, was the first food to have been cultivated by the Native Americans.

Summer squash (most notably zucchini, crookneck, pattypan, and chayote) ripen more quickly than winter varieties (which is why summer squash are ready in the summer). The quality of summer squash suffers when it is allowed to overdevelop, so summer squash varieties are best harvested and eaten while still young and small. The opposite is true for winter squash (acorn, butternut, delicata, kabocha, hubbard, etc.). They are best when allowed to linger on the vine throughout the summer season and into the fall, growing large and meaty until the skin hardens like a shell and the seeds become fully developed. The flesh becomes golden and sweet, having soaked up nutrients from the soil–and much good energy from the sun–during the long ripening process.

Each type of winter squash has its own subtle, unique flavor and texture–and different crops of the same species can taste different depending on the soil and growing conditions. Butternut squash is probably the most popular and readily available winter squash, and both acorn and spaghetti squash can be easily found in most supermarkets. (Note that spaghetti squash is sometimes considered a summer squash, because it becomes available during the late summer season. But its culinary traits are those of a winter squash, so I include it in the winter category.)

Nutritionally Speaking:
Compared with summer squash, winter squash is a concentrated food, containing greater amounts of natural sugars, carbohydrates, and vitamin A. Winter squash is also very digestible, high in good fiber, and low in calories (although higher than summer squash because they have more to them).

Culinarily Speaking
Unlike summer squash winter squash benefits from being allowed to grow large on the vine--usually the bigger the squash, the better the texture and flavor. Winter squash is at its best when dry, hard, difficult to cut, and heavy for its size. Generally, the darker and deeper the color on the inside, the sweeter and the more nutritious the squash. (A darker skin is sometimes, but not always, an indicator of this.) Store squash in a cool, dark, dry place (no refrigeration necessary), and it will keep for up to a month.

Most varieties of winter squash (exception: spaghetti squash) can be used interchangeably in recipes, and make excellent food for babies (and anyone else with chewing issues.) Winter squash seeds are also edible, and are especially delicious when toasted and salted.

Winter Squash Guide
Butternut squash:
Easily found in supermarkets. Beige colored and shaped like a vase. This is a more watery squash and tastes somewhat similar to sweet potatoes. A good "beginner squash," as this one the most consistent squash and predictable in flavor.
Acorn squash:
Also easily found in supermarkets. A nice size, and easy to stuff, but of all the winter squashes, this one tends to be the least consistent in flavor. If the squash is shiny and a very dark green that means it's not quite ripe. Wait until it becomes somewhat dull, with some orange color on the skin. You'll know you have a good squash if you cut it open and it's a dark orange, light yellow means it won't be as sweet.
Spaghetti squash:
Also easily found in supermarkets. These look like large yellow ovals, and are named for their stringy flesh. This squash really has a shell instead of skin. Usually it is not as sweet as the other squashes, but it has a lovely subtle flavor all its own. Look for spaghetti squash with a smooth, dark yellow shell and pick the heaviest one you can find - it should weigh at least 3 pounds. Go for an even heavier one if you can find it.
Delicata squash:
This is a slim, elongated oval squash with a lovely orange and green striped pattern on the outside. Because they are easier to peel than other varieties of winter squash, these are the ones to steam or sauté for quick cooking.
Kabocha squash:
Usually very, very dry and flaky but delicious. You'll get the most squash for your investment with this one, because kabocha squash hardly shrinks during the cooking process, and it expresses very little liquid.
Hubbard squash:
HUGE & a somewhat similar taste to Kabocha squash. Delicious!

For information about pumpkins, read the archived pumpkin article.

Gardeners: For more winter squash descriptions and planting information: visit www.seedswestgardenseeds.com